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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.